Wed, July 8
5.09 am Thai time
Hi, all, back in Singapore's Chaingi airport. Arrived at Bangkok airport at 9am Tues morning (monday night in the States) and was there for 12 HOURS waiting for my flight which was delayed again and again. Arrived Singapore at 11pm, and now waiting til 9am to head back to LA. It's been fun.
Note to other East Asia virgins like myself: always, ALWAYS travel with your own tp, and never make the mistake of assuming public restrooms will have it on hand. Most upscale places and private bathrooms have the wall-shower pressure washer for your behind, and only use tp to dry off after. However, public places apparently use the drip - dry method unless you're fortunate to have your own supplies on hand.
Look forward to being home again soon. Another 30 hours or so.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Reflection
Because it's raining, and my time to leave is drawing near, I'm sitting here on the patio drinking coffee, watching people, and thinking of the best / worst parts of my trip.
First, the best:
* Watching a storm roll in over the beach, the bright light from the uncovered sun slanting through black clouds to turn the breaking waves into translucent jade and sending diamond shards of spray sparkling across the crest.
* The kids: coming up to poke me in wonder at my pink skin, throwing their arms around me, racing up to hug me on the street, seeing their faces light up when they grasped something.
* Getting the chance to actually live among the community, learn a little of the language, and be so welcomed. I have made some really wonderful friends.
So many other great memories, they crash against one another vying for recognition. Me first! Me first!
* * *
The Hardest Parts:
* Being demoted to "stupid tourist" once again after spending such a great time in Thai Meuang. I don't know exactly what the Thai phrase is, but sure recognize it when I hear it - especially since it's said with the same condescending disgust we in Phoenix use to refer to Snowbirds.
* Walking through the market with Anders my last week there, and on the way back he pointed out the town brothel. Really?? Here?! He answered, and as he was talking about it I couldn't resist looking back in morbid fascination - and horrified recognition as one of "my" kids, a girl of about twelve, stepped out of the doorway to wave at me before she ducked her head and withdrew inside once again.
*One boy came to school one day with a black eye that was visible from across the classroom. It looked like the dark grease smeared by football players to reduce glare. He was one of the rowdier boys, always mock-fighting in the back of the classroom. When he came up to bring me his paper for the ritual smiley face, I made a fist and punched the palm of my hand, and gestured to his eye. He half smiled and nodded - and as he turned away I felt my stomach flip over. What I hadn't seen in the shadows was the bruise that ran from the bottom of his jawline up across his cheekbone and into his hairline at the temple. The worst was the four distinct, black knuckle prints, the mark of a large adult hand.
Babies here are adored, children barely tolerated. I just don't get it.
* Last, the other one that has given me nightmares:
The neighbor's puppy that I had become so attached to came over to see me that last afternoon. She was doing her usual happy-puppy laps of exuberant racing around the yard and into my lap and away again, when suddenly she stopped and squatted... and left a huge pile of what looked like writhing snakes in a pile on the grass. Ewwwwwwwww.
First, the best:
* Watching a storm roll in over the beach, the bright light from the uncovered sun slanting through black clouds to turn the breaking waves into translucent jade and sending diamond shards of spray sparkling across the crest.
* The kids: coming up to poke me in wonder at my pink skin, throwing their arms around me, racing up to hug me on the street, seeing their faces light up when they grasped something.
* Getting the chance to actually live among the community, learn a little of the language, and be so welcomed. I have made some really wonderful friends.
So many other great memories, they crash against one another vying for recognition. Me first! Me first!
* * *
The Hardest Parts:
* Being demoted to "stupid tourist" once again after spending such a great time in Thai Meuang. I don't know exactly what the Thai phrase is, but sure recognize it when I hear it - especially since it's said with the same condescending disgust we in Phoenix use to refer to Snowbirds.
* Walking through the market with Anders my last week there, and on the way back he pointed out the town brothel. Really?? Here?! He answered, and as he was talking about it I couldn't resist looking back in morbid fascination - and horrified recognition as one of "my" kids, a girl of about twelve, stepped out of the doorway to wave at me before she ducked her head and withdrew inside once again.
*One boy came to school one day with a black eye that was visible from across the classroom. It looked like the dark grease smeared by football players to reduce glare. He was one of the rowdier boys, always mock-fighting in the back of the classroom. When he came up to bring me his paper for the ritual smiley face, I made a fist and punched the palm of my hand, and gestured to his eye. He half smiled and nodded - and as he turned away I felt my stomach flip over. What I hadn't seen in the shadows was the bruise that ran from the bottom of his jawline up across his cheekbone and into his hairline at the temple. The worst was the four distinct, black knuckle prints, the mark of a large adult hand.
Babies here are adored, children barely tolerated. I just don't get it.
* Last, the other one that has given me nightmares:
The neighbor's puppy that I had become so attached to came over to see me that last afternoon. She was doing her usual happy-puppy laps of exuberant racing around the yard and into my lap and away again, when suddenly she stopped and squatted... and left a huge pile of what looked like writhing snakes in a pile on the grass. Ewwwwwwwww.
Picture This...
Sunday, July 5
Arrived in Bangkok by bus about 10.30 this morning. Having already been scammed by a taxi driver once, I was wary when I got off and was instantly swarmed by a group of orange-jacketed drivers: "Where you go, Ma-Dammmmm! My sister run guest house, very nice, cheap-cheap!"
I ignored them and dug out the card for Swani Guest House, passed on to me by a fellow traveler at the last place I stayed. {It's about double what I've been paying, but worth it.}
I held up the card and showed it to one confident man who approached. "Tuk-tuk? Tao-roi", I asked. He examined the card, then handed it back to me.
"300 baht."
I took my card back and pocketed it, then hoisted my pack. "Sorry, that's too much, " I told him.
"Ok, ok, for you special price first customer, I drive you 250.
"I don't have that much," I said, and kept walking. He conferred with two or three still clustered, then came back.
"How much you pay," he asked.
I showed him my wallet with its lonely 100bt bill and change. "This is it, this is all I have," I told him. He recoiled, and looked at me in disbelief. "Ok, two hundred," he offered.
I took the bill and change out and held it in my hand. "This. Is. All baht. Mai baht."
He went back to his cronies and conferred again. A heated debate broke out, and I began to suspect maybe I really was asking too much for too little. Finally he jogged back to me holding a young man by the arm and rattled off something, of which all I heard was, "take you okay."
The younger man examined my card closely, then shrugged. He motioned for me to stay put, then jogged off. He appeared a few minutes later as the jackets were buzzing about in a cloud once again, this time wearing a helmet and carrying another... and astride a pink and silver Vespa-type scooter. He smiled and waved for me to hop on, the smile fading a bit as he took in my small backpack, my jumbo sized carrying bag, and the hiker pack strapped to my back that is nearly as big as I am.
For a split second, reason and common sense attempted to put in an appearance, but were squashed by sheer impulse and I climbed aboard -
- and nearly fell over the other side as my pack shifted. With the help of a kindly and slightly amused transit official I got the straps tightened to prevent any further sliding, and climbed back on. My two smaller bags were wedged between his feet on the flat, shelf-like footrest behind the back wheel. A nod of his head, a cloud of blue smoke, and we were off on the moped I called "Flame."
[I would like to add here that he and the other drivers had all read my card, so I assumed that him showing up on a scooter meant this would be a fairly short trip. NOT!!!]
I felt reasonably comfortable, since I have spent a month riding around ThaiMeuang on the backs of all kinds of scooters, on all kinds of terrain, with all kinds of drivers. I have not,however, spent any time at all doing this in TRAFFIC! Whole new type of terror to experience.
Thais are very friendly and outgoing, but touching in public even among longterm couples is not encouraged, so in that way it is a very Hands-Off society. I have learned to be a passenger without touching the driver at all, basically by doing the butt clench where you hope to hell your glutes grab the seat and cling for dear life. Maybe I can't crack a walnut with my behind, but I can hang on through sharp turns with the best of them.
About thirty seconds into it I lost any sense of decorum and did everything but wrap around my driver like a snake, trying my damndest not to fall off every time we cut someone off to make a right across four lanes of left-turning drivers, or into oncoming traffic to pass someone slower. The ten-ton pack felt like it wanted to leap off and take me with it at every corner, speed bump, and cigarette butt we went over.
I wish I had a picture of me on the back of a scooter, pack towering above me, scared to death and loving it.
Arrived in Bangkok by bus about 10.30 this morning. Having already been scammed by a taxi driver once, I was wary when I got off and was instantly swarmed by a group of orange-jacketed drivers: "Where you go, Ma-Dammmmm! My sister run guest house, very nice, cheap-cheap!"
I ignored them and dug out the card for Swani Guest House, passed on to me by a fellow traveler at the last place I stayed. {It's about double what I've been paying, but worth it.}
I held up the card and showed it to one confident man who approached. "Tuk-tuk? Tao-roi", I asked. He examined the card, then handed it back to me.
"300 baht."
I took my card back and pocketed it, then hoisted my pack. "Sorry, that's too much, " I told him.
"Ok, ok, for you special price first customer, I drive you 250.
"I don't have that much," I said, and kept walking. He conferred with two or three still clustered, then came back.
"How much you pay," he asked.
I showed him my wallet with its lonely 100bt bill and change. "This is it, this is all I have," I told him. He recoiled, and looked at me in disbelief. "Ok, two hundred," he offered.
I took the bill and change out and held it in my hand. "This. Is. All baht. Mai baht."
He went back to his cronies and conferred again. A heated debate broke out, and I began to suspect maybe I really was asking too much for too little. Finally he jogged back to me holding a young man by the arm and rattled off something, of which all I heard was, "take you okay."
The younger man examined my card closely, then shrugged. He motioned for me to stay put, then jogged off. He appeared a few minutes later as the jackets were buzzing about in a cloud once again, this time wearing a helmet and carrying another... and astride a pink and silver Vespa-type scooter. He smiled and waved for me to hop on, the smile fading a bit as he took in my small backpack, my jumbo sized carrying bag, and the hiker pack strapped to my back that is nearly as big as I am.
For a split second, reason and common sense attempted to put in an appearance, but were squashed by sheer impulse and I climbed aboard -
- and nearly fell over the other side as my pack shifted. With the help of a kindly and slightly amused transit official I got the straps tightened to prevent any further sliding, and climbed back on. My two smaller bags were wedged between his feet on the flat, shelf-like footrest behind the back wheel. A nod of his head, a cloud of blue smoke, and we were off on the moped I called "Flame."
[I would like to add here that he and the other drivers had all read my card, so I assumed that him showing up on a scooter meant this would be a fairly short trip. NOT!!!]
I felt reasonably comfortable, since I have spent a month riding around ThaiMeuang on the backs of all kinds of scooters, on all kinds of terrain, with all kinds of drivers. I have not,however, spent any time at all doing this in TRAFFIC! Whole new type of terror to experience.
Thais are very friendly and outgoing, but touching in public even among longterm couples is not encouraged, so in that way it is a very Hands-Off society. I have learned to be a passenger without touching the driver at all, basically by doing the butt clench where you hope to hell your glutes grab the seat and cling for dear life. Maybe I can't crack a walnut with my behind, but I can hang on through sharp turns with the best of them.
About thirty seconds into it I lost any sense of decorum and did everything but wrap around my driver like a snake, trying my damndest not to fall off every time we cut someone off to make a right across four lanes of left-turning drivers, or into oncoming traffic to pass someone slower. The ten-ton pack felt like it wanted to leap off and take me with it at every corner, speed bump, and cigarette butt we went over.
I wish I had a picture of me on the back of a scooter, pack towering above me, scared to death and loving it.
Aging Gracefully
Spent two days in Sukothai and another two in Ayutthaya, exploring the ruins. Sukothai is the most easily accesible of the two, as the Old City is a bit outside the city limits. One entrance fee and bike rental allows unlimited exploration within the Heritage Site, even though it is transected by canals and roadways.
Ayutthaya,on the other hand, has grown up and around and among the ruins and is a bustling full-blown commercial city that incidentally happens to have historic sites scattered here and there. Like many other tourist destinations, many of its citizens are markedly less friendly toward foreigners -- have heard numerous stories of travelers being deliberately misdirected when asking for directions, etc. From my own experience, when asked for admission ticket into the first several sites I visited, I asked if there were a ticket that would allow me into more than 1 site, and was told no- repeatedly. At the fourth one, there was a large banner showing the tickets available... including one which would allow entry into any 6 sites, for about what I had paid for only 3.
Sukothai has an air of reverance about it for all those who came before and left behind these substantial memorials. It is easy to visualize the layout of the entire metropolitan complex, judging on how the remaining buildings were placed. There are a few statues left, but most objects of any importance were removed by the state after robbers looted one of the prime caches in the 1950's. Only a tiny handful of their stolen treasures were ever recovered, which is a historical tragedy as the few that remain are evidence of incredible detail and value.
Ayutthaya lacks some of the reverence, but has more majesty just due to the sheer size of manyof the buildings. One of the smaller palaces is mostly still standing, and most of its walls and pediments are still intact. It is a little overwhelming to walk down the hallways that were once the main worship and civic center several hundred years ago. I could almost imagine hearing the swish of robes as I walked through one of the monasteries. The scent of incense burning at the shrines only adds to the illusion.
My favorite sites at Ayutthaya were two of the most famous. One is a temple constructed by a prince to house the remains of his father and the ashes of his two brothers who fought and killed each other in a battle for the throne. When officials opened one of the chedis, they discovered an intact stairway leading to the tiny belowground storage chamber. The walls and ceiling are painted with still-visible red and gold leaf, showing details of Buddha's life.
The other is Wat Maha Taht, the largest and most elaborate structure. Several of the towering chedis are decorated with figures from the Ramakien (the Thai version of the Hindu / Indian Ramayana, the mythology of Rama). One of the most intriguing objects is the head of a sandstone Buddha outside of the temple structure it presumably came from. An ancient Bodhi tree has grown up and around it, leaving this beautiful face peering out from a curtain of roots surrounding it. Rainwater has etched lines through the grime over the years, leaving light colored tracks like traces of tears across one cheek.
Ayutthaya,on the other hand, has grown up and around and among the ruins and is a bustling full-blown commercial city that incidentally happens to have historic sites scattered here and there. Like many other tourist destinations, many of its citizens are markedly less friendly toward foreigners -- have heard numerous stories of travelers being deliberately misdirected when asking for directions, etc. From my own experience, when asked for admission ticket into the first several sites I visited, I asked if there were a ticket that would allow me into more than 1 site, and was told no- repeatedly. At the fourth one, there was a large banner showing the tickets available... including one which would allow entry into any 6 sites, for about what I had paid for only 3.
Sukothai has an air of reverance about it for all those who came before and left behind these substantial memorials. It is easy to visualize the layout of the entire metropolitan complex, judging on how the remaining buildings were placed. There are a few statues left, but most objects of any importance were removed by the state after robbers looted one of the prime caches in the 1950's. Only a tiny handful of their stolen treasures were ever recovered, which is a historical tragedy as the few that remain are evidence of incredible detail and value.
Ayutthaya lacks some of the reverence, but has more majesty just due to the sheer size of manyof the buildings. One of the smaller palaces is mostly still standing, and most of its walls and pediments are still intact. It is a little overwhelming to walk down the hallways that were once the main worship and civic center several hundred years ago. I could almost imagine hearing the swish of robes as I walked through one of the monasteries. The scent of incense burning at the shrines only adds to the illusion.
My favorite sites at Ayutthaya were two of the most famous. One is a temple constructed by a prince to house the remains of his father and the ashes of his two brothers who fought and killed each other in a battle for the throne. When officials opened one of the chedis, they discovered an intact stairway leading to the tiny belowground storage chamber. The walls and ceiling are painted with still-visible red and gold leaf, showing details of Buddha's life.
The other is Wat Maha Taht, the largest and most elaborate structure. Several of the towering chedis are decorated with figures from the Ramakien (the Thai version of the Hindu / Indian Ramayana, the mythology of Rama). One of the most intriguing objects is the head of a sandstone Buddha outside of the temple structure it presumably came from. An ancient Bodhi tree has grown up and around it, leaving this beautiful face peering out from a curtain of roots surrounding it. Rainwater has etched lines through the grime over the years, leaving light colored tracks like traces of tears across one cheek.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Dissing the Illusion
Have come to the conclusion that I would much rather be a traveler and experience the world than a tourist who just photographs it. Have also come to the conclusion that I'm not crazy about touring by myself.
Chiang Mai has a reputation for being the craftmanship place of Northern Thailand. The materials for sale in any of the three main markets - Wororot, Sunday Market, and Night Market - are beautiful and certainly inexpensive according to the exchange rate. I found some cool stuff, but had a really hard time getting into the whole bargaining atmosphere because the work is of such good quality and because I felt guilty for taking advantage of how desperate they are to sell anything. I'm sure I paid more than I could have in some instances, but still got some smokin' deals. The two things I REALLY wanted were more than I was comfortable spending and I had no way to get them home.
Made it up to the temple of Doi Suthep. Built on the mountain, the temple is visible from the city below - especially when the sun glints off of the gilded chedi and the four parasols around it. One of the most striking features is the 300-step staircase flanked by giant Naga (snake) figures. After that we went to a hilltribe village to see their museum and learn about their lifestyle. My guide is originally from the Lisu tribe, so he was very informative. Finally, for another hundred baht he drove me to a location known as The Old City. In 1984 this area was being developed by relatively expensive homes when the builders discovered some ruins that are believed to date back to about 900 ad. One of the landowners donated the land, and now it is a historic site. There are about 5 temples, and evidence that this was where the original capitol was until a catastrophic flood destroyed it. The people simply relocated to the present location, and no one knew anything about the old city until a few decades ago. There are indications of many more ruins but unfortunately land disputes have prevented them from being unearthed.
I spent a whole day just walking around the older part of the city and exploring. I looked for a book on Chiang Mai history, but there was nothing available in English. For a relatively small city, there are temples Everywhere. Some are fascinating, like the one with a chedi atop a base surrounded by elephants; or the one decorated with dancing women that houses the oldest library of Buddhist materials in the city, if not the entire country. One was as elaborately carved and decorated as all the rest but not stuccoed and gilded; left in its natural teak. Beautiful! I'm looking forward to getting home and uploading pics of everything, so check back in a couple of weeks.
When I was burned out on gold leaf I wandered around for a while and got the idea for soemthing to take home. Couldn't make myself understood, and inadvertently offended a couple of people until I happened to run across an English - speaking man who just returned after 30 years in Chicago. His daughter owns a shop and while she didn't have what I was looking for, he wrote down the Thai phrase I needed, then offered me a ride on his scooter to the downtown area where I might find what I was looking for. That was awesome ... until I realized I was outside the walled city, the older part; in Chinatown; and had absolutely no idea where I was or how the heck to get back. Plus, that was the first time I was really made to feel like an unwelcome intruder. In any case, I finally came across the Night Market and was able to find my way from there: I hired a tuk-tuk.
I met several great people in the last few days: Maria, the young German woman who will be working at the School For Life here (it is the affiliate school of the one Net works at in the South); three young people from Scotland who invited me to have a beer and suck at pool with them; three Veterinary students from Ohio; Jack and Jess who referred me to the guesthouse where I'll be staying in Sukothai; Roger, the man who gave me a lift to Chinatown; Mr. T, who gave me a guided tour to Doi Suthep, the Hmong village, and the Old City; the woman who lives in Japan but is returning to take care of her ailing mother... so many really interesting people.
* * *
Transportation is interesting. There are several varieties of bus, depending on where you're going and how much you're willing to spend to get there. Once you've arrived at your destination city you can take a sangthaew, tuk-tuk, or city bus.
Sangthaews are simply pickup trucks with a seat on each side of the bed and a covered canopy. Of the older ones, they are almost uniformly 1980 and older and Datsuns, but seem to be in fairly good running order. The newer ones are almost all Fords and Toyotas, although Isuzu is the brand of choice for personal vehicles.
Tuk-tuks are three-wheeled covered motorbikes which sound like they run on lawnmower engines. They're a relatively cheap and convenient ride, if you can stand the fumes.
So far my feet have been my best ride, but I'm heading to Sukothai for some exploring tomorrow. I understand the ruins are spread across a 14-km area, so maybe I'll hire a driver.
Happy 4th of July, everyone!
Chiang Mai has a reputation for being the craftmanship place of Northern Thailand. The materials for sale in any of the three main markets - Wororot, Sunday Market, and Night Market - are beautiful and certainly inexpensive according to the exchange rate. I found some cool stuff, but had a really hard time getting into the whole bargaining atmosphere because the work is of such good quality and because I felt guilty for taking advantage of how desperate they are to sell anything. I'm sure I paid more than I could have in some instances, but still got some smokin' deals. The two things I REALLY wanted were more than I was comfortable spending and I had no way to get them home.
Made it up to the temple of Doi Suthep. Built on the mountain, the temple is visible from the city below - especially when the sun glints off of the gilded chedi and the four parasols around it. One of the most striking features is the 300-step staircase flanked by giant Naga (snake) figures. After that we went to a hilltribe village to see their museum and learn about their lifestyle. My guide is originally from the Lisu tribe, so he was very informative. Finally, for another hundred baht he drove me to a location known as The Old City. In 1984 this area was being developed by relatively expensive homes when the builders discovered some ruins that are believed to date back to about 900 ad. One of the landowners donated the land, and now it is a historic site. There are about 5 temples, and evidence that this was where the original capitol was until a catastrophic flood destroyed it. The people simply relocated to the present location, and no one knew anything about the old city until a few decades ago. There are indications of many more ruins but unfortunately land disputes have prevented them from being unearthed.
I spent a whole day just walking around the older part of the city and exploring. I looked for a book on Chiang Mai history, but there was nothing available in English. For a relatively small city, there are temples Everywhere. Some are fascinating, like the one with a chedi atop a base surrounded by elephants; or the one decorated with dancing women that houses the oldest library of Buddhist materials in the city, if not the entire country. One was as elaborately carved and decorated as all the rest but not stuccoed and gilded; left in its natural teak. Beautiful! I'm looking forward to getting home and uploading pics of everything, so check back in a couple of weeks.
When I was burned out on gold leaf I wandered around for a while and got the idea for soemthing to take home. Couldn't make myself understood, and inadvertently offended a couple of people until I happened to run across an English - speaking man who just returned after 30 years in Chicago. His daughter owns a shop and while she didn't have what I was looking for, he wrote down the Thai phrase I needed, then offered me a ride on his scooter to the downtown area where I might find what I was looking for. That was awesome ... until I realized I was outside the walled city, the older part; in Chinatown; and had absolutely no idea where I was or how the heck to get back. Plus, that was the first time I was really made to feel like an unwelcome intruder. In any case, I finally came across the Night Market and was able to find my way from there: I hired a tuk-tuk.
I met several great people in the last few days: Maria, the young German woman who will be working at the School For Life here (it is the affiliate school of the one Net works at in the South); three young people from Scotland who invited me to have a beer and suck at pool with them; three Veterinary students from Ohio; Jack and Jess who referred me to the guesthouse where I'll be staying in Sukothai; Roger, the man who gave me a lift to Chinatown; Mr. T, who gave me a guided tour to Doi Suthep, the Hmong village, and the Old City; the woman who lives in Japan but is returning to take care of her ailing mother... so many really interesting people.
* * *
Transportation is interesting. There are several varieties of bus, depending on where you're going and how much you're willing to spend to get there. Once you've arrived at your destination city you can take a sangthaew, tuk-tuk, or city bus.
Sangthaews are simply pickup trucks with a seat on each side of the bed and a covered canopy. Of the older ones, they are almost uniformly 1980 and older and Datsuns, but seem to be in fairly good running order. The newer ones are almost all Fords and Toyotas, although Isuzu is the brand of choice for personal vehicles.
Tuk-tuks are three-wheeled covered motorbikes which sound like they run on lawnmower engines. They're a relatively cheap and convenient ride, if you can stand the fumes.
So far my feet have been my best ride, but I'm heading to Sukothai for some exploring tomorrow. I understand the ruins are spread across a 14-km area, so maybe I'll hire a driver.
Happy 4th of July, everyone!
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Hi again
Nope, haven't fallen off the planet or into a vat of green curry and eaten myself to death. Been on the road since Thursday afternoon and just now coming back to life.
Had an issue with getting paperwork in time to process my Visa before I left, so it didn't get done. No big deal really, just meant I only had 30 days before leaving the country, so I did what is called "The Visa Run". Tia picked me up at 1pm Thurs afternoon and drove me up the coast to Rangon, about 3 hours away. Stayed at a place called the Kiwi Orchid that was really scary looking at first glance (and second and third too...) First time I've ever been in a place with communal toilet, and I wasn't about to chance the shower -- it was right behind the washing machine, and no door!!
On the other hand it was affordable, the food there was absolutely excellent, and the three sisters who run the place were some of the kindest people I have ever met.
Got up at 6 the next morning so I could get a ride to the pier, check out at Immigration and catch a long-tail bus to Myanmar (Burma) to get my passport stamped, which would allow me another two weeks in Thailand. That was not the most fun I've ever had. Myanmar is desperate for American currency, so they demand $10 US dollars from each person (definitely reasonable). However, they want brand new money, which can realistically only be gotten from Phuket if you don't know in advance to bring it with you. By the grace of God I had a new $10 bill in my wallet, which I had just gotten from the Phoenix bank on my way to LA.
I waited to hand over my passport and my money, and it was refused. Sometime in its short lifetime, my bill had gotten an infinitessimally small puncture wound - looked like perhaps it had been poked with a pin or caught by one end of a staple. And the official refused it. Now, Phuket is more than 4 hours south of Rangon, so this was a big deal.
After way more drama than necessary, a "kindly observer" stepped in and offered to interpret. He said they would accept 500 baht instead (about 200 more than the exchange rate on a ten). Aside from the unbroken thousand-baht bills stashed in my money belt all I the loose cash I had was 400 and a couple of 1-baht pieces, which they accepted and let me go (probably to get me out of his crew-cropped hair.) When I stepped through the doorway I looked back to see the two officials and the "passerby" engaged in a round of cards.
The ride to and from Myanmar was interesting. Twice the boat boys gathered up all the passports from all six of us passengers; then edged up to a lonely hut balanced precariously on stilts. The boys would scramble up the rickety scaffolding like monkeys then return a few minutes later. Have no idea what that was all about; just glad to get it back in my pocket again.
I got back to the Kiwi at a few minutes past ten, and my ride pointed out the bus station at the end of the block. I had plenty of time to go up and load my stuff then get to the terminal to catch the 10.30 bus to Bangkok; and from there the overnight bus to Chiang Mai.
As it happened, in what may be the first time in Thai history, the bus left about ten minutes early. So, I went back to the Kiwi and ordered breakfast, then settled in to wait until the next one, at 1.30. One of the other visitors there was a Canadian who has spent quite a bit of time in both Laos and Thailand, and we talked for quite a while. He had quite a bit of good information to share, and had stayed at the Kiwi several times. At one o'clock one of the bus officials came over to announce that there were only three passengers, so we weren't leaving until 3 pm. By this time I was getting a bit anxious, as I was not looking forward to arriving in Bangkok in the middle of the night and trying to find a safe and inexpensive place to stay. Jai went over to talk to them, and came back to let me know that she had already taken care of rebooking my trip (so they couldn't charge me again) and that the bus would come by and get me at her place so that I wouldn't have to haul my huge pack down there again.
She is so funny - we took pictures of ourselves and each other, and Dave offered to take one of me with the sisters. Just as he took the photo she tickled me, so she and I are both laughing. I have met some of the most amazing people ever on this trip.
The bus was an older model, but at least had air conditioning. When they arrived to pick me up I was relieved to find it wasn't crowded (there were only about four other passengers), and the seats were relatively comfortable. For the first few hours, anyway. By the time we got to Bangkok I didn't think I'd ever have feeling in my behind again. I waited at the South terminal until their ticket office opened at 5am. One Thai man saw me writing in my book and paused to watch; he hasn't seen a lot of English writing and apparently it looks as odd to him as the Thai writing does to me. He kept coming back to check on me, and as it got later he got more and more comfortable talking with me - and, through a younger man interpreting, asked for my phone number. I told him I was meeting my husband in Bangkok. Have to give him credit for trying - when the time came to go catch a short bus to the Morchit terminal across town, he helped me with my bag and offered to show me where to go. When I stood up, he barely came to my shoulder. In the States I would have assumed he was a jockey.
The Morchit terminal was either really confusing, or I was so sleep-deprived I couldn't make sense of it. Completely by accident I walked directly up to the Chiang Mai window and bought what I thought was a "VIP" ticket. It wasn't, it was first class (yes there's a fairly substantial difference) but in any case it was much less than the VEEP and the bus I got was new, airconditioned, non-smoking (YAYYYY!!!) and I got a seat on the top deck, in the front row with plenty of room to stretch. It was a beautiful drive, too.
I got a sangtheow to drive me to the guest house I had found online. I was very surprised to see a TON of people milling about when I got there, and they only had dorm-style rooms left. The girl at the desk said there were many other guesthouses in this area, but that this one just happened to be one of the best-known among young farang backpackers etc. She suggested I go either way down the lane, and that I would find many to choose from. Just two doors down I discovered "JJ Place" which is a new, modern facility. Have my own bathroom (YAY!!!!!) with hot water, even; and the proprietor goes out of his way to be helpful. He even speaks English well, and is taking me to Doi Suthep himself tomorrow for a tour of the countryside, the temple, and the Hmong village there.
It would be nice sometimes to have company to share some of this with, but some of the things and people I have come across may not have happened if I were not on my own. Still, I am looking forward to a hot BATH when I get home. And no ants.
Had an issue with getting paperwork in time to process my Visa before I left, so it didn't get done. No big deal really, just meant I only had 30 days before leaving the country, so I did what is called "The Visa Run". Tia picked me up at 1pm Thurs afternoon and drove me up the coast to Rangon, about 3 hours away. Stayed at a place called the Kiwi Orchid that was really scary looking at first glance (and second and third too...) First time I've ever been in a place with communal toilet, and I wasn't about to chance the shower -- it was right behind the washing machine, and no door!!
On the other hand it was affordable, the food there was absolutely excellent, and the three sisters who run the place were some of the kindest people I have ever met.
Got up at 6 the next morning so I could get a ride to the pier, check out at Immigration and catch a long-tail bus to Myanmar (Burma) to get my passport stamped, which would allow me another two weeks in Thailand. That was not the most fun I've ever had. Myanmar is desperate for American currency, so they demand $10 US dollars from each person (definitely reasonable). However, they want brand new money, which can realistically only be gotten from Phuket if you don't know in advance to bring it with you. By the grace of God I had a new $10 bill in my wallet, which I had just gotten from the Phoenix bank on my way to LA.
I waited to hand over my passport and my money, and it was refused. Sometime in its short lifetime, my bill had gotten an infinitessimally small puncture wound - looked like perhaps it had been poked with a pin or caught by one end of a staple. And the official refused it. Now, Phuket is more than 4 hours south of Rangon, so this was a big deal.
After way more drama than necessary, a "kindly observer" stepped in and offered to interpret. He said they would accept 500 baht instead (about 200 more than the exchange rate on a ten). Aside from the unbroken thousand-baht bills stashed in my money belt all I the loose cash I had was 400 and a couple of 1-baht pieces, which they accepted and let me go (probably to get me out of his crew-cropped hair.) When I stepped through the doorway I looked back to see the two officials and the "passerby" engaged in a round of cards.
The ride to and from Myanmar was interesting. Twice the boat boys gathered up all the passports from all six of us passengers; then edged up to a lonely hut balanced precariously on stilts. The boys would scramble up the rickety scaffolding like monkeys then return a few minutes later. Have no idea what that was all about; just glad to get it back in my pocket again.
I got back to the Kiwi at a few minutes past ten, and my ride pointed out the bus station at the end of the block. I had plenty of time to go up and load my stuff then get to the terminal to catch the 10.30 bus to Bangkok; and from there the overnight bus to Chiang Mai.
As it happened, in what may be the first time in Thai history, the bus left about ten minutes early. So, I went back to the Kiwi and ordered breakfast, then settled in to wait until the next one, at 1.30. One of the other visitors there was a Canadian who has spent quite a bit of time in both Laos and Thailand, and we talked for quite a while. He had quite a bit of good information to share, and had stayed at the Kiwi several times. At one o'clock one of the bus officials came over to announce that there were only three passengers, so we weren't leaving until 3 pm. By this time I was getting a bit anxious, as I was not looking forward to arriving in Bangkok in the middle of the night and trying to find a safe and inexpensive place to stay. Jai went over to talk to them, and came back to let me know that she had already taken care of rebooking my trip (so they couldn't charge me again) and that the bus would come by and get me at her place so that I wouldn't have to haul my huge pack down there again.
She is so funny - we took pictures of ourselves and each other, and Dave offered to take one of me with the sisters. Just as he took the photo she tickled me, so she and I are both laughing. I have met some of the most amazing people ever on this trip.
The bus was an older model, but at least had air conditioning. When they arrived to pick me up I was relieved to find it wasn't crowded (there were only about four other passengers), and the seats were relatively comfortable. For the first few hours, anyway. By the time we got to Bangkok I didn't think I'd ever have feeling in my behind again. I waited at the South terminal until their ticket office opened at 5am. One Thai man saw me writing in my book and paused to watch; he hasn't seen a lot of English writing and apparently it looks as odd to him as the Thai writing does to me. He kept coming back to check on me, and as it got later he got more and more comfortable talking with me - and, through a younger man interpreting, asked for my phone number. I told him I was meeting my husband in Bangkok. Have to give him credit for trying - when the time came to go catch a short bus to the Morchit terminal across town, he helped me with my bag and offered to show me where to go. When I stood up, he barely came to my shoulder. In the States I would have assumed he was a jockey.
The Morchit terminal was either really confusing, or I was so sleep-deprived I couldn't make sense of it. Completely by accident I walked directly up to the Chiang Mai window and bought what I thought was a "VIP" ticket. It wasn't, it was first class (yes there's a fairly substantial difference) but in any case it was much less than the VEEP and the bus I got was new, airconditioned, non-smoking (YAYYYY!!!) and I got a seat on the top deck, in the front row with plenty of room to stretch. It was a beautiful drive, too.
I got a sangtheow to drive me to the guest house I had found online. I was very surprised to see a TON of people milling about when I got there, and they only had dorm-style rooms left. The girl at the desk said there were many other guesthouses in this area, but that this one just happened to be one of the best-known among young farang backpackers etc. She suggested I go either way down the lane, and that I would find many to choose from. Just two doors down I discovered "JJ Place" which is a new, modern facility. Have my own bathroom (YAY!!!!!) with hot water, even; and the proprietor goes out of his way to be helpful. He even speaks English well, and is taking me to Doi Suthep himself tomorrow for a tour of the countryside, the temple, and the Hmong village there.
It would be nice sometimes to have company to share some of this with, but some of the things and people I have come across may not have happened if I were not on my own. Still, I am looking forward to a hot BATH when I get home. And no ants.
Monday, June 22, 2009
No pics
Hi, all.
Sorry, am having major electronic issues - first with the bank (somehow, it double debits every transaction!!!!!) and now with the internet. Haven't been able to upload pics in weeks, well, no wonder. Found out last night this entire PROVINCE is still on dial-up... and it all blacks out when it rains. Like, several times a week.
Grrrrrrrrr.....
Just hafta share later.
Sorry, am having major electronic issues - first with the bank (somehow, it double debits every transaction!!!!!) and now with the internet. Haven't been able to upload pics in weeks, well, no wonder. Found out last night this entire PROVINCE is still on dial-up... and it all blacks out when it rains. Like, several times a week.
Grrrrrrrrr.....
Just hafta share later.
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